For Science! HIDs For My Lancer… Not So Smart But I Just Had To Do It.

A week or so back, a colleague of mine at work sold off some bits and bobs off his previous Civic VTi, which included a pair of HID H4 headlight bulbs and HID H11 foglight bulbs. My training supervisor got hold of the set but after putting them into his own Civic VTi, he found that he didn’t like them all that much and passed the stuff on to me to see if I’d like it on Aska.

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This is one side of the bulb set that I got. 

The colleague who owned the parts were selling the bunch for just Php 500 or a little below $10, and I figured I’d like to give it a try. At that amount, there is very little in the way of loss in my opinion, and would give me something to do with Aska.

A couple of days back, I got the set and split it with another friend of mine who coincidentally needed the H11s for his Jazz (Fit). I got the headlight set and made a test fit the night I got the stuff. Earlier tonight though, I scraped some time to do the install job.

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My old man set up a work light for me. How nice, now I don’t have to work with a flashlight held by my mouth. 

Before I get to the juicy parts,  let’s talk about headlights for a moment.

HIDs or High Intensity Discharge (lights) are kind of car lighting system that uses gas to generate its light. Think of it as your CFL (compact flourescent light) that you use at home, but adapted for use in a car. The lights first came out with luxury and high end vehicles in the very early 2000’s and towards the middle of that decade, it became the rave among car enthusiasts due to it’s very bright and while light. Some are so bright that along the edge of the light, a band of blue often appears to the eyes hence some people calling HIDs as “blue lights”. While it’s a good add on for a car, it’s not always a very good idea to simply swap it into those that use reflector headlights.

Reflector headlights use a polished surface inside the housing to reflect light from the bulb on to the road. This is used for a majority of vehicles on the road today, but they are steadily being replaced by projector headlights.

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On the left side is a projector headlight, and on the right is a reflector headlight. This is a common arrangement, and is called a dual lamp (or light if you would) system.

Reflectors are great, they work well enough and fairly cheap compared to projectors. However, most reflector headlights were designed to work with halogen bulbs and HIDs were originally meant (still are actually) for use in projector headlights. The problem is how the light is “thrown” into the road. In reflector headlights, there is a lot of light scattered around and are not exactly the most efficient in a sense. Also. reflectors work best with regular halogens with “normal” color temperatures (measures in K or Kelvin) of around 3600 up until around 4200 something. HIDs though normally produce white light, commonly around 6000K. This white light tends to get scattered much more easily, resulting in a light that appears bright at short distances but doesn’t have the “reach” of conventional halogen bulbs in the same reflector housings.

Enter the projector headlight – as the name implies, it projects the light onto the road much better than reflectors. This is due to the glass lens at the front that focuses the light and throws it further. One of the good things about it is that it doesn’t produce as much glare as a reflector headlight would. HIDs work very well in projector headlights and many cars come with it standard, although some lower spec models may use halogens instead of HID.

All A17x Lancers use the familiar reflector headlight with flutes on the glass, ostensibly to throw the light in a more predictable pattern on the road. It works great with halogens and works well in all weather conditions. Essentially all I’d be doing is change out the bulbs from halogens with the kit that I have now and hope for the best.

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This is half of the kit that I got and the parts are labeled. This one is supposedly rated for 6000K which means I’ll be getting a more white light than stock halogens. 

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A close up of the bulb I’ll be using. This one uses HID for the low beam and halogen for the high beam. This combo is often used for retrofits since a full HID kit is often very expensive. 

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Secured the ballast to the body using an existing hole on the body. I find it amazing that whenever I need to work on the car, mod something and would be needing a hole, there would almost always be one where I need it to be. Conveniently, there is even a metal screw for me to use. Also if you’d be interested to know, “chong” or “tiyong” is derived from the Spanish word “tio” which means an older man, usually an uncle. It is a common term of endearment among men in the Philippines. 

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I had to “mod” the headlight lock ring to get it over the back portion of the bulb. Because of the wires and other things in the way, simply threading it through was not possible. I snipped one portion of the ring and made the wires go through the ring. Now my headlight is ready to be installed into the back of the headlight housing as one would normally change bulbs. 

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Done installing the passenger side. Here I’m testing the output, which suffice to say looks better than the halogen on the left. Repeat the process for the left side, which is just a wee bit trickier since the battery is in the way. 

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A comparison of the lights from the front.

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Both babies are in. Notice the greenish, bluish tint along the edge of the light.

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How it looks from the inside through my tinted windshield. 

Now, I would be the first to admit this isn’t exactly a super smart idea and it’s best to stick to whatever OEM parts were used or if in case of headlight upgrades, going with 90 / 100W Halogens would prove to be better on the most part. But I thought that I’d go with this for now, mostly for kicks. If I am to stick to HIDs though, I am looking to get lower color temps, probably around 4200K or something to mimic the beam and throw of regular halogens.

See the problem with white light in general is the lack of depth (as my friend put it) – this simply means that yellowish light throws further and has better contrast in the dark than a comparable white light. Still, I leave it entirely up to you guys to decide and remember to check local laws and regulations about headlight modifications. In most US states, I will get a ticket for what I just did, or even if I stick in 90 / 100W bulbs. Here in Manila where the roads are mostly lawless, this is fine. But in the interest of a better motoring experience, do check local laws before putting in any mods.

 

 

~

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A Much Needed Breather…

Just over the past week, we made yet another trip to my wife’s home in San Antonio, Zambales. We have a bunch of reasons on why we wanted to make the trip – for one, our kid turned two the past month and we thought it was a good reason to see the grandparents. Another is that we just seriously need a vacation – the initial plan was to see the Montales folk every quarter or so, but seeing as how I was very busy the past few months, I could not make the time.

In any event, we pushed through this time around and we got to enjoy a few days of being almost off the grid – almost because in as much as there is no cable tv and the place is far removed from Imperial Manila, they have a much faster internet connection there.

We left Thursday morning at Jojo’s Hour (0300) because it was going to be Aska’s coding day and that would’ve killed off almost a day worth of peace and quiet if I stayed in Manila. I really love traveling during those wee hours of the morning, and while it is dark and fairly “dangerous” with many drivers becoming sleepy at the wheel, drunk or both, I see the lessened vehicle volume to be all the advantage I could ever need. Driving at night also seems to lend well to me seeing as how I stay awake on most nights due to work.

This time around, we were traveling with my sister-in-law and she elected to sit out back beside our kid, while my wife rode shotgun. That was the plan – in practice, all three are peacefully asleep, leaving me and Aska mentally alone to enjoy the peace and serenity of the open road.

For some odd reason though, I chose to pass through San Fernando, Pampanga going to Zambales. Our normal route always made use of the SCTEX, but I thought that it would be early morning anyways and I wanted to shave off an estimated 30 kilometers off the trip distance and save some gas whilst maintaining my average speed.

Or so I thought.

The roads from San Fernando going to Dinalupihan are at times so bad that even the WRC will never have their cars pass through there. Some parts have been dug up and some are in the process of being dug up. Some of the more “exciting” parts had asphalt still remaining but had big patches missing from the road. I thought it would be a cool idea to keep the speed high and avoid the holes as much as I could. The yellow foglamps certainly helped picked out the bad parts from a distance, but on the most, I lost precious trip time going to Dinalupihan. From there, I took the SCTEX again because I was thinking that I would lose even more time going through the Olongapo – Bugallon Road.

SBMA is of course a breeze, but the roads outside of Olongapo and into Subic itself presented yet another challenge. A long stretch of road was being dug up and left only one lane of traffic on each side to traverse the muddy and bumpy way for a good kilometer or so. Past that point, it was smooth sailing going to San Antonio.

I didn’t get to do very much while at the house, and that was exactly the point! I was able to sleep at will, eat, and just laze around the place. Of course, I did take some photos, occasionally went online to check on things and continue my progress on Real Racing 3.

When evening fell on the quiet town, I stumbled upon a food stand that sold fairly passable Shawarma. It was good enough for me to keep coming back almost every evening and it gave me an opportunity to marvel at the fact that the town was so sleepy that past seven pm on any given night, the main plaza is almost devoid of people. I really like that kind of feel that you can walk outside, bump into almost no one and yet feel safe.

I also made good on a self made promise to get Aska some new clip on mirrors. The mirrors on her were already shaking pretty bad and close to just giving out on me. I had a spare set that I got from a friend of mine, but I’m keeping those as mementos since that friend is already deceased. The auto supply store, Rex’s, lies the next town over and that particular errand gave me time to drive out and relax some more while behind the wheel. Surprisingly, the mirrors were sold to me for about half the price since I last inquired about them back in March. Even then, the mirrors were still cheaper than can be had in Imperial Manila. It doesn’t help that many sellers have jacked up prices to almost ridiculous levels, saying that they’re the only ones selling the stuff and therefore giving them an unassailable excuse to mark up.

I plan on coming back to get more parts that I want, and check other places that may have other pieces of interest. I’d since put the mirrors on because I couldn’t wait to get back to Manila to do the job. One of the mirror base plates though was not angled correctly, but there was nothing some hammering could not fix. I’m glad to report that the mirrors are now very stable and do not shake with the wind while traveling at speed.

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The cool evening breeze also allowed me to indulge with a flask of Johnny Walker Black, which as a friend of mine once told me, is noob level shit. But it’s my kind of shit and with some dark chocolate, it really is my shit. I was planning to get some pork to cook up a steak but laziness got the better of me. I also shared this relatively newfound thing with my sister-in-law, who thought it was weird but ok. I guess that’s really how it goes, and is an acquired taste given the Filipino context of drinking. I capped off each night with whiskey and listening to some jazz fusion.

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I “rediscovered” this gem while on vacation. I first heard of this album as a young kid back in the last 90’s from my friend’s step-dad, who many years later would be my godfather in marriage. Great guy and I actually thought of him while I eased

Of course, I took the opportunity to hone my motorcycle skills by riding around some. I was supposed to get radiator coolant and went through a couple of stores within the towns closest to where we were. Not surprisingly, no one sold coolant there because everyone thought water by itself is great. Many people there and elsewhere in the Philippines don’t believe in using radiator coolant – maybe I can cover that on a future entry. I also had a funny run-in with some lawmen manning a checkpoint but they let me off easy after they found out I was too much of a klutz with a bike to do anything dangerous with it.

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One thing I really regret on this trip was the fact that I left my D40 at home. See, this time around, I thought I’d travel light and wanted to depend on my Xperia XA1 Plus to do all the image capturing. It did its job really well, except it could not handle one thing – the night sky. On the third night, the sky cleared up so much that I saw the band of the Milky Way. No shit, I am not and cannot make it up. Of course, to the naked eye, it appears like nothing in photos you’d see. I very easily could’ve taken such images had I the camera with me. Next time, I won’t be so lazy as to actually leave a good camera behind. I marveled at the night sky as much as I could, or as I figured, until my neck hurt.

The drive home was fairly uneventful and with a heavy heart, we had to leave early Sunday morning. This time, I went through my normal route through SCTEX. Never mind the fact that it took an extra 30 kilometers to get home, but all of it was spent at speed so it wasn’t like I was losing time anyway. We are now stopping twice along NLEX because the kid has to eat, and we thought getting out to stretch would be nice. Previously, I had my wife and kid sleep and not stop because I wanted to spend as less time on the road as possible.

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No overheating problems, but I routinely pop the hood open during stops to help cool down the fluids faster. The only bad thing about this was people saw how filthy my engine bay was err still is.

In all, Aska performed admirably during the trip. I didn’t spend much time beyond the speed limit though because the front wheel bearings now seem to need replacing. Since I replaced the bearings in the back, there was much less noise back there and I could now hear the whine of the front bearings. I knew I should’ve taken care of those previously, but I guess I’ll just do them sometime on at home since those don’t need special tools to take out and install.

 

Until the next trip then!

 

 

 

~

Keep Rollin’ : New Wheel Bearings And A Few Short Notes Before Aska Goes On Another Long Trip

 

Ok so for the long time, Aska had been having a knocking sound in the back wheels. At first, it only happened at higher speeds then it got happening at lower speeds. As of about a week ago, it happens as soon as the car is rolling. All the while, I’d taken her my wife’s home in Zambales, to our damned out of town gigs in Batangas (fully loaded with our damn gear and four grown, often drunk, men, in the middle of the night on the highway) and rolling around everyday.

 

At first, I thought it was something knocking on something (obviously), but I was thinking more along the lines of suspension parts, or even the drum brake parts knocking on something. I suspected all sorts of things – the apparently busted up upper shock mounts in the back, some sort of bushing I have not yet located or maybe elves even. My old man told me it was the wheel bearings, and my good friend in the office, who’s also a big mechanical geekazoid, had told me so. I was under the impression that bad wheel bearings ought to hum badly before they are taken as damaged, especially on sturdy live axles like on Aska.

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I was wrong and they were right – it was the wheel bearings. More specifically, it was the one on the left rear. Actually, I didn’t figure so until I decided to take the plunge and just take their word for it – and they were right all along. As soon as the rear left axle was removed, I knew that the bearing was shot and I decided to get both fixed.

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This is almost exactly how the axle shaft appears with its corresponding parts.

 

In any event, I figured I didn’t hear the humming part because up until last year or so, Aska had been running a loud (on the inside at least) fart can of an exhaust tip and I often ran with a velocity stack or an open, dry type air filter, which added to the din. I must’ve missed the humming part at that point and I only really noticed it when I decided to go with my current factory style set-up.

I went down to ATCO Pasay (my favorite parts place) to get myself the needed parts. I lost the soft copy of the service manual that was passed on to me by a friend so I went with my memory of what the axle needs for servicing. For your reference, if in case you are here because Google thought this is a place for service advice on classic Lancers, you will need the main wheel bearing, its lock and axle seal.

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The NTN boxes contain the bearings, and the oil seals pictured here were actually wrong and I forgot to order the locks too. Lesson learned, always list down the parts you need even if you think you have it all figured out.

I didn’t do the work this time around because of the fact that the bearing and the lock needs to be pressed in place. You need to press the stuff in place because if you choose to hammer it in, you may damage the bearing, lock and axle shaft. Do not, for the love of God, believe in what many a mechanic may tell you about they can do the work by using a piece of pipe and a hammer. Trust me, that can work but an improperly fitted bearing can and will fail more easily than one pressed in. It goes without saying that the lock has to be securely fitted, otherwise, the axle will get dislodged when you move the car. I’d seen this happen to a friend of mine, and no amount of us trying to work roadside to hammer the lock into place worked.

I went to a nearby shop that ATCO recommended and had the work done there. The work is pretty straight forward – remove the axle, cut the old lock, press out the old bearing then press in the new ones in place. It’s actually a fairly quick and easy job, but where I live, there are no machine shops that have a hydraulic press for the bearing and lock. In any event, I went to ATCO after shift so it wasn’t like I had the strength to be working.

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This is the shop that did the work. That there is where old man is, would be the hydraulic press. In this frame, they’re working on compressing valve springs off a cylinder head so they can remove the retainers.

 

Sadly, the rear left axle is damaged to the point that the old bearing – which seized, had gouged up the axle and the knocking sound seemed to be coming from there. No way I was going to take the risk of running the car to the province along desolate stretches of highway in the middle of the night. However, I also needed the car for the week before we leave so I just had the shop remedy the situation to install the bearing while I look for spare axles. Unfortunately, ATCO does not sell the axles anymore but I was lucky that a friend of mine had a couple lying around for me to take. It seems that the axles for a Lancer with drums (SL) takes different axles compared to the ones with disc brakes (GT). I’m guessing that the spline count would be different since the SL with a 4 speed KM110 transmission goes with a 3.9 differential whereas the GT with a 5 speed KM119 takes a 4.2 differential – be on the look out for this.

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Spline count often matters between different applications

 

I went back to the mechanic’s shop a week after I got the spare axle shafts and selected what I thought would be the best one – an axle with a usable bearing. See, if the bearing had seized, there is a possibility that the inside collar would’ve eaten up the axle shaft just like what happened on mine. A freely spinning yet secure bearing would mean that the axle shaft is still ok. The stuff on the old axle was pressed out and the new stuff pressed in, and after installation, everything worked beautifully.

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Pressed neatly into place, everything should appear as so. The bearing should be securely attached to the axle and the outer ring should spin freely.

 

No more knocking sound from the back, the ride sounds a good deal quieter and the car rolls so much better. Also, don’t forget to replace the axle’s oil seal – failure to do so can result in gear oil leaking out and cause loss of rear braking power with the oil coming to contact with the drums or disks. Many mechanics may say that the seal is reusable without leaks present, but seals are too cheap yet so important to skimp out on.

Keep in mind that as with any car part replacement, it’s best to do both axles at the same time to make sure everything wears down at the same time. Don’t forget to keep your gear oil topped up always – seized bearings often begin when lubrication is short. A good rule of thumb is to check the gear oil at least once a year, and to replace it when needed. You’ll know it needs replacement if the oil smells burnt, sludgy or both.

 

I also managed so snag myself a nos (new old stock) air filter element for the stock air filter box. I haven’t dropped it in yet, but I’ll definitely do so before we leave town Thursday morning. I haven’t changed the oil in Aska too – I often change the oil before going to Zambales as it coincides with my preferred tune up schedule. These days though, I’d been pretty busy and haven’t quite had time to lay my hand on the old girl.

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There’s some light surface rust on the chrome surface and normally, I’d clean it off. These days though I feel a little lazy and no one will see it anyways since it will be stowed away into the air filter box. See the part numbers on the label for reference if you need this.

 

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The old air filter. See how greyed out the element is.

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Ah! The new filter!

I guess I’ll do that once we’re there since I no longer feel comfortable doing last minute checks and fixes to the car.  It must be me getting old, but I remember that I loved crunching all the stuff I want done before leaving on a long trip or back when I was younger, before I leave for the track. Well, that was when I was younger and the adrenaline rush powered me on the day before, during and after a track day.

 

I’m looking forward to another great drive with my now 31 year old girl.

 

 

 

~

Aska’s Air Intake Choices : Chrome Air Cleaners, Racing Horns and OMG Factory Stuff

Like many car guys, I indulge in squeezing the most that I can out of my beloved Lancer. Originally built as an economical sedan that found itself catapulted, and winning, in the world of rallying, the Lancer will always be synonymous with above average performance and reliability.

While the A17x platform Lancers released locally in the Philippines were all meant to be reliable and economical cars, they have long been touted as “fast” and “sporty” in comparison to its contemporaries. The 4G32 / 33 engines that powered these little cars have proven themselves to be fairly easy to tune, reliable and almost bulletproof, and they have a seemingly cult following among the elder generation.

All locally released Lancers (SL / GT / GSR) all had engines powered by carburetors, that magical box will almost no moving parts yet makes the joy of driving a Lancer possible. Almost everyone though will immediately suggest that the easiest “upgrade” you can do for an A17x Lancer would be to ditch the oem airbox and replace it with a more free flowing one. The logic is to allow more air in so the car can breathe easier, and produce more power in the process.

But is there really that much of a gain from simply replacing the air filter?

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Like almost everyone, I was told of this and have gone this route. I’ll discuss here the things that I’d found out along the way, and the various ways I’d looked into gaining (or probably losing) power by letting the engine “breathe” easier.

Below is how the 4G32/33’s engine bay looks like when stock.

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Jacked this image from a friend’s Car Domain page. That was from a time that his Lancer was fairly stock. Now all that had gone away and replaced with a 4G63 NA.

The black thing over the carburetor is the factory air filter box that contains the air cleaner element, and prevents dust from going into the carburetor, ensuring that only clean air goes into the engine.

A lot of people frown upon this set up because they say it’s restrictive, and the engine cannot make good power with this. There are quite a few options that people would normally throw down the table to “make the engine breathe” easier.

 

Some would tell you to outright ditch the air cleaner to make sure that the engine is fed with gobs and gobs of air. The idea is sound – an air filter will restrict air going into the engine. Removing it allows all the air in the entire planet to fill the engine with every intake stroke, and makes for faster drawing of the air into the carburetor…

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Got this off a certain Car Domain owner’s site.

…which is all cool if you don’t have to daily drive the vehicle, or if you are cool changing the oil and cleaning your carburetor more often. Oh yeah, in case you haven’t known yet, you know where the dirt particles go when they get sucked into the engine? It goes into the engine oil. Over time, all that dust will collect within the oil and make it into a sludge that has no cleaning nor lubricating purposes for the engine. See, the oil also helps cool down the hot interiors of the engine. If there’s a lot of dust particles within the oil, those will store the heat instead, making the oil hotter and unable to lose the engine’s heat at a faster rate.

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Aska’s engine with a dry type Simota brand air filter.

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Here’s an old photo of Aska at a carshow with her then newly installed Simota air cleaner. Check out how spic and span the engine bay was.

A more popular idea is to replace the air filter box with an open time air filter, like in the picture shown above. That chrome plated UFO thing is the air filter “box” which has the air filter (dry) exposed without all the metal casing around this. The idea is to again present all the air of planet Earth for your car to breathe in, but with a filter to make sure that only clean air passes through. This one is a good idea and a fairly cheap upgrade to make as well. This can pass for everyday driving, and has the added benefit of making you hear the engine’s induction noise eg. sucking the air in, and makes you feel that the engine had suddenly gained power by tenfold.

 

A less common idea would be to ditch the filter element and use something called a velocity stack, or air trumpet / horn for the less car finesse people. What it is it completely disregards the air filter element and whatever casing it’s in, and instead uses a funnel through which the air can be sucked in. The simple idea is that such an arrangement will allow smoother entry of air into the carburetor. The more complicated idea and one that is less understood by a great majority of people is that velocity stacks act like a resonating pipe that “tunes” the resonating frequencies of the pressure pulses within the engine and I have no idea what I just typed there. There’s a handy explanation here.

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My ghetto velocity stack fitted over my ghetto tuned Mikuni Solex carburetor from when I was still actively track day-ing with Aska.

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Here’s an old photo of the engine bay with the velocity stack on. See how bad ass it looks. And check out my then huge Accel 4001 ignition coil.

Ideally, the length of the stack is measured to correspond with the pulses within the engine, which ideally should be in tune with whatever the heck you’re trying to do so you can channel not just all the air in the planet, but the magic of the universe in order to grant hitherto unknown powers to your engine. Again, I have no idea what I just typed there, but if I can tell you anything cool, this will make your engine sound even better with all the glorious noises that the engine will make while sucking in all that air. It is especially enjoyable when you’re accelerating since you get to hear that “whoooooosh”, and you instantly feel you can slay even Bunta Fujiwara. Below are some other examples of velocity stack setups.

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This is a set of really expensive carbs that a friend of mine owns. He went hardcore, and milled his own set of velocity stacks. If one big ass stack sounds cool, it probably means four sounds even better.

Now velocity stacks are mostly seen on race only set-ups, but a few daring souls have gone and daily driven with it. I have as well, the only thing was since there is no air filter, the engine oil gets dirty really quick. But with my car producing that really nice sucking sound, who cares about changing oil right?

 

Now you’d seen some of the options you can do about the air intake thing, it’s time to do some thinking about things. Let’s go with a stock engine for the time being since that’s what I have, and its easier to start with the basics.

Your engine will suck in a specific amount of air per cylinder per cycle. Ideally, your carburetor should be able to flow in the require amount of air into the engine, normally rated in terms of cfm, which is cubic feet per minute. Unfortunately, this is where I’m going bro science because I don’t have the flow rates for the stock Aisan and Solex, although a very handy cfm calculator here can give us an idea.

The calculator asks for the displacement and maximum rpm of a given engine, and Saturn engines can go to 8,000 rpm as some of my friends have done with their heavily modified units. For a stock 4G33 (1400cc but actually 1395 but you get the picture) that should give us 167.25 cfm at 8,000 rpms. But my idea about this is that while maybe the stock 4G33 can get up to 8,000 rpm, it wouldn’t work out as well as we thing due to issues like valve float. I know my stock engine can get up to 6,000rpm before encountering that issue so let’s pretend that you’ll only hit that high up. That should give us 125.43 cfm, which can be cross checked using this other calculator. For the VE or volumetric efficiency, stock engines are anywhere between 70 to 85% efficient, so you can use those figures – I used 85% even though I have current blow-by issues. Unfortunately, I have no flow ratings for the popular Mikuni Solex 28-32 DIDTA carbs that some earlier Lancers came stock, nor the similarly sized but unappreciated Aisans that came one later ones.

However, the above figures are enough to kind of give you an idea of how to go about your air intake upgrade.

Here is my advice though – if you’re using a bone stock engine, you may as well leave the oem air cleaner box in place. For one, it makes the engine quiet since you won’t hear the engine making that sucking sound. Another is that if you’re not really gunning for high rpms, my bro science mind thinks that it can give adequate flow into the carburetor, especially if you’re running at highway speeds.

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The oem air cleaner assembly is back in place. But before I put it back in, I cleaned the air filter element (which really needs to be replaced) and the insides of the air intake tube and air box to make sure there’s no dirt inside. I still have to refinish the assembly as rust had begun to form on some of the metal parts.

These past few months, I’ve been rethinking my ideas about Aska because I’m enjoying a nice quiet ride nowadays, which was also the main reason I had my old glasspack removed, and the stock-ish chambered muffler re-installed.

How am I liking this now? I love the current set-up! Truth be told, I feel like the car has a little bit more power from the low end up, although as of late since the stock muffler had been back in place, it seems a little hard to push the engine to 6,000 rpms. Although the trade off is that the “sweet” spot of the engine went down and I get decent power for city driving, and some spirited cruising around. And actually, the car didn’t slow down as much as I’d thought it would.

One last thing I’ll probably do before I sit down on this for another long while is to get better headers made because the ones I have on now had been with the car since forever, are cheaply made and generally just pieces of crap.

 

If you want to just max out for the lolz of if, I would especially recommend a velocity stack although you may find it easier to have one made since it’s quite rare to find them for stock down draft carburetors. The one I own was a very lucky find, and was also custom made by the previous owner / seller.

If you want some of the lolz but you’re concerned about the health of your engine, and you’re not the kind to tear down the carb for cleaning every so often, go for the dry type air cleaners. Simota makes good ones for cheap and you can find them easily enough online – just make sure you check the opening on the bottom plate since it needs to match the throat diameter of your carburetor.

If you want just the lolz but have none of the two mentioned above, go ghetto and ditch everything. Just don’t expect your oil to last long, nor your engine bay to look nice and “powerful”.

 

Back when I had either of these things on the car, it was easier to push the engine to higher rpms. But then since I am running a stock engine with a stock carburetor and cam, there’s really no point in pushing the engine that far up the rpm range. I used to only do it for lols, but honestly, the stock engine cannot seem to make power beyond 5,000 rpms, which is really as much range as one would ever need on the road sans track day activities. So I’m keeping the oem airbox for now, and revel in the fact that when someone asks to pop my hood open, they’ll see a factory stock engine with the correct stuff on the engine, which is quite a rarity nowadays. I’ll test it out on the highways once the holidays are here because it’s been like seven years since I last drove full time with the oem airbox installed.

 

 

 

Ah, c’est la vie.

 

 

 

 

 

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